Thursday, March 29, 2007

Linni Eats L.A.: The Counter


When it comes to making your dining experience one of a kind, the folks at the Counter get right to the point by handing a clipboard to anyone who enters the crisp, modern Santa Monica space. Chic silver chairs and cool blue walls give a clean background for the eclectic art and wine collection adorning the walls. The diversity of design carries over into the patrons who stockpile at tables and of course, the Counter. Sit here to avoid the waiting list for a table and gain the added bonus of a menu tour guide—the staff behind the bar will answer any questions you have about the menu, as well as offer suggestions about their favorite combinations.

Each clipboard comes standard with a menu printed at the bottom, including regular specials like the 50/50 fries, where your table gets to choose two fried items from the list of sweet potato fries, fried onions, and regular old French fries. They also serve uncommon fare along the lines of cranberry-topped turkey chili and hobo packets, a childhood camping favorite of mine that involves taking whatever veggies you’ve got, wrapping them in foil and tossing it in the fire. The result is delicious and I’ve never before seen a restaurant try it.

Above this menu, you’ll find a tear-off checklist of burger accessories, organized into neat sections to simplify the near-impossible task of designing your sandwich. First, choose your meat—their beef is freshly-ground 100% natural Angus from corn-fed cattle raised on an all-vegetarian diet, but if you’re not feeling that, go for the turkey or veggie burger, or even grilled chicken. Next up, decide how hungry you are—burgers come in 1/3, 2/3 and 1lb. sizes. I chose the 1/3 lb and it was definitely enough, but there’s no shame in going big! Cheese comes next, and I chose the Danish Blue Cheese from an agonizing list of ten amazing choices. To complement that, I chose dried cranberries, grilled pineapple, mixed baby greens and avocado from the list of toppings and with the help of a friendly staffer, chose the apricot sauce to dip it all in. The fifth and final step is choosing your bread—hamburger buns, honey wheat buns and English muffins are all available, as well as the option to have your burger in a bowl on a bed of lettuce.

When this masterpiece arrived, I didn’t even want to disrupt the beautiful display with my silly mouth. I couldn’t bite into this any more than I could bite into a Monet painting! But of course, the hunger that developed in traffic en route to Santa Monica overcame me. The leaning tower of beef was toppled, the heavens opened up, naked chubby babies with harps sang to me…ok, not quite. But this was one of the best burgers I have ever tasted. Call me crazy, but for a moment I wished the toppings weren’t in the way so I could just taste the pure, unadultered cow.

Mine was cooked medium-well, but the menu suggests getting it done medium and after sampling my friend’s medium patty, my lesson was definitely learned. This didn’t stop it from being appropriately crumbly, juicy and moist, the perfect base for the salad of toppings I had selected. The waitress said I could try another sauce if I thought the apricot was too sweet, but it was just right for this fruity sandwich. The English muffin I ordered wasn’t dry or rigid like I feared. It absorbed the mixture of blue cheese morsels and sauce and hugged the interior like a crunchy blanket. I also got to try a medley of lettuce, avocado, american cheese, and dill pickles with honey mustard and the melted cheese took the burger to a whole new gooey dimension, wholly distinct from the blue cheese experience.


If you’re feeling overwhelmed by the 27 toppings listed, they do have a few tried-and-true recipes on the menu, as well as a burger of the month. They featured a halibut burger with jicama slaw while I was there, and I can’t wait to go back and try their namesake Counter Burger, served with sharp provolone, lettuce, tomato, fried onion strings, sautéed mushrooms and sun-dried tomato vinaigrette. There’s also the herb goat cheese spread and gruyere left to sample, the caramelized onion marmalade and roasted garlic aioli have yet to tantalize my taste buds, and I won’t even get into the laundry list of toppings I have yet to explore—lets just say there are sun-dried tomatoes and honey-cured bacon strips in my future.

Believe it or not, this whole sandwich was under ten bucks, and the entire bill was less than 15 when you add my apple pie milkshake, with actual pieces of crust and apple blended in. They also whip up banana, peanut butter, and coffee flavored shakes and malts. The only downside to the Counter is its location, easily a half hour drive from Oxy, but if you get some friends together for a beach trip and make a day of it, I promise you they won’t let you down. For a full menu and locations, visit www.thecounterburger.com.

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