Linni Eats Chicago: Irazu

On an unfrequented and bleak strip of Milwaukee Avenue, you might not give a passing glance to the tiny green hut on the corner. Look again, my friend, for there resides Irazu, one of Chicago's only Costa Rican restaurants that boasts fare so exotic that the first half of the menu is definitions.

Now, don't let the language intimidate you--Avena is just a fancy name for the eatery's signature drink, an oatmeal milkshake. Yes, you read that correctly--an oatmeal shake strongly reminiscent of the Mexican rice drink, Horchata, but delicious nonetheless. And that cinnamon-topped specialty isn't all--other shake flavors include corn meal, blackberry, and exotic Central American fruits such as the tamarindo and mamey, a mild apricot-raspberry flavor that will give you cavities on the spot.

Yuca is another menu favorite, a potato-like root vegetable that can be served boiled or fried. We chose the fried option, which was topped with garlic oil and deep-brown bits of roasted garlic. It tasted amazing at first, but proved a little too greasy for my taste. Just make sure you don't fill up on this or the salty-greasy tortilla chips--both are out of this world, but a little heavy.


I was looking forward to the gallo pinto, a Costa Rican breakfast of white rice and black beans served with fried plantains or eggs. This was served every morning when I visited Costa Rica, and it was hard to overcome that craving when I returned to the regular American pancake breakfast. Irazu's take on this authentic dish featured the rice and beans molded into a delectable dome and served with steaming aromatic corn tortillas. I chose the fried plantains, which were another oily-yet-extraordinary menu item--they could create a new genre of food with their collection of fried, heavy treats! A dining accomplice of mine chose the gallo pinto with scrambled eggs, which featured diced onions for a surprise twist of flavor.

We were served promptly by an adorably authentic old man who spoke minimal english and seemed a little aloof. You won't have to wait long for any menu item--the vegetarian burrito, steak tostada, two gallo pintos, and order of fried yuca took under 15 minutes. There is ample outdoor and indoor seating, although the food must speak for itself in this minimalistic environment. The slightly drab interior might be more seductive if you visit at night, but I would eat Irazu's unique and consistent cuisine from a street vendor if that was what it took.

Very affordable, most entrees under $8.

Irazu
1865 N. Milwaukee
Chicago, IL
(773)252-5687
Open Monday-Saturday-10am-9pm
Closed Sunday
Accessible by the Blue Line- .2 miles southeast from the Western stop on Milwaukee