Monday, December 11, 2006

Linni Eats L.A.: Mia Sushi

Eagle Rock, a modest neighborhood in northeast L.A., wouldn't immediately strike you as the place to go for a glamorous sushi experience. That's the beautiful thing about Los Angeles, though--like a tree that grows in Brooklyn, you can always count on the city of angels to sprout elegant eateries in the most unexpected parts of town.


Enter Mia Sushi, nested between a liquor store and law office on the Taco Truck-laden Eagle Rock Boulevard. The place is soaked in swank, with a water fall in the outdoor seating section, chrome and wicker seating arrangements, and warm orange lamps that add an irresistible glow to the dark red and tan walls.

I came with a large group of 8 people and we were late, but the hostess was nothing but pleasant as she seated us. The equally agreeable wait staff brought out drinks and edamame in a timely fashion, considering the large Friday night crowd they had. The bar offers all the regular nigiri and sushi, but also has an extensive list of specialty rolls, all paying homage to local attractions and street names. From this list, we sampled the Colorado, Oxy, Highland Park, and Eagle Rock rolls. The Colorado, named for one of the town's main boulevards, featured salmon, cream cheese, and avocado, fried with a crunchy tempura exterior and drizzled with creamy lemon sauce. The crunch of the tempura was fantastic, as was the presentation. The roll itself was a little bland and the lemon flavor was almost nonexistent, but it was almost too pretty to notice those things.

The Oxy roll, named for nearby Occidental College, showcased salmon, shrimp, white fish, avocado, and cucumber baked in Mia's special sauce. I don't know what that special sauce involved, but this creamy masterpiece basically exploded in my mouth, with the perfect combination of ooze and flavor. (There was some argument over who got to finish these.) The Highland Park roll was a basic California roll topped with baked scallops in eel sauce. This tasted great, but the scallops did not hold together or stay on top of the roll and not even the best chopstick users at our table could eat one successfully.


We also sampled the octopus, which had great texture and was plated beautifully. The last of the specialty rolls we tried was the Eagle Rock roll, made up of spicy tuna and asparagus with a fried tempura coating and lemon sauce. This was more flavorful than the Colorado, probably due to the spice of the tuna and the crunchy asparagus, but the lemon flavor was still missing in action.

For dessert, we were given their Strawberry and Banana Tempura on the house for a birthday in our group. It was served with whipped cream and chocolate sauce and despite the odd appearance of the fried fruit, it tasted incredible. Be careful, though--the strawberries have maximum tongue-burning potential.


The ambiance was great--everyone at nearby tables seemed to be thoroughly enjoying their dining experience in this misplaced oasis of laidback trendiness. It manages to exude a vibe of modernity without going over the top, and while the sushi may not be the best I've ever had, Mia certainly provided a pleasurable evening--the hostess even hugged our birthday girl on her way out. This place has a lot of promise and I can't wait to try some more of their specialty concoctions.

4741 Eagle Rock Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90041
323-356-2562
Open Tue-Sun 5:30-11pm

Tuesday, December 5, 2006

Linni Eats Newport Beach: Il Farro

I must tell you up front, I am not usually crazy for Italian food. I used to swoon over a good bowl of pesto pasta and my heart still warms at the thought of a perfectly executed margherita pizza. That said, the passing of the carb craze and my realization of the calorie content in pizza added a negative association to treats from that Mediterranean boot of gastronomical pleasure. Therefore, when a friend told me she would be taking me to the best Italian restaurant she knew, I thought I would order a Caprese salad and be done with it.


Thank god I refrained from this silly path. Newport Beach's Il Farro is currently staging a comeback for farro, a rare organic grain spilling over with health benefits and rich flavor. Learning this and spotting the dessert tray, I knew I had to abandon all hopes of dietary reservation and dive into this experience, fork first.

We were given a basket of bread, baked with farro grains that were visible and gave a wholesome, nutty taste to the warm loaf. Next came the enormous menus and supplementary specials list and a brief panic overcame me--everything looked amazing. Do I order the lobster ravioli with walnut sauce? The farro risotto with pancetta and white wine sauce? I decided on two of the day's specials--Shrimp Bisque and Pumpkin Gnocchi with vodka cream sauce. The bisque arrived at the perfect temperature and was creamy without being too milky. The flavor could have been a bit more explosive, but the consistency was excellent. Baby shrimp give me the creeps sometimes but these did not distract from the soup's texture--they were just as velvety as the rest of it. The gnocchi had just the right amount of subtle pumpkin flavor, and the chef didn't overdo it by adding any orange dye--the dish was a greyish hue, accented by the purple grilled onions in the sauce.


I also had the opportunity to sample the fettucine with sundried tomatoes, salmon, and scallops. This was absolutley breath-taking. I performed the dietary double-take we all know, where you take a bite and immediately bug out your eyes and unabashedly shout an exclamation with your mouth still full of food. The smokiness of the salmon in this dish mixed with the lavish earthiness of the tomatoes formed the epitome of taste perfection. My gnocchi was nothing short of outstanding, but I did experience some fetuccine envy across the table.

We grudgingly decided it would be wrong to miss out on dessert, despite already-extended bellies. The waiter brought a tray with at least ten choices. I ordered the panna cotta while my dining companions sampled something that looked like chocolate pie and home-made biscotti, served with a glass of amaretto for dipping. The feel of the egg-free panna cotta was sublime--like a creme brulee without the excess load of guilt and egg yolk. The biscotti bursted with flavor and purposeful crunch, unlike the stale, tooth-cracking bricks you find at corporate coffeehouses. The pie dish had a crust made with farro grain, woven into a lattice on top. Presentation was pleasing without trying too hard, a feeling that permeates the establishment. The spectacular food thrives in a simplistic atmosphere, small but dressed to the nines in remnants of Italy. Both the owner and chef came by to make sure we were enjoying ourselves, but they had no reason to worry. Everyone there was having a good time.


We arrived at 6:30 on a Friday and had no trouble getting a table, but any later than that and we may have encountered a wait. There is an outdoor seating section that looks out onto the Newport pier restaurant strip, but it is less cozy and warm than the glowing interior. Wherever you choose to sit, Il Farro has something for everyone, from their extensive wine list to their fresh, authentic ingredients. Rumor has it, you can ask the chef to make you anything in the Italian genre of food and he will make it, provided he has all of the necessary components. This kind of focus on pleasing your individual palate makes you feel like you are in the kitchen of your best friend--if your best friend could cook the best damn salmon fettucine this world has ever tasted.

All pictures c/o http://www.ilfarro.com/restaurant.htm

Sunday, December 3, 2006

Linni Eats L.A.: Hollywood Farmer's Market

LIt’s a situation college students are all too familiar with—drowning in a pool of junk food and empty coffee cups, going on your 50th consecutive hour of not leaving the dorms. It’s finals, and it’s always the same. But it doesn’t have to be. Next Sunday, before getting bogged down by books, stop by the Hollywood Farmer’s Market on Sunset and Ivar, a stimulation for all five senses.


The rainbow of Swiss chard and free smells of freshness are unavoidable, and no money is required to get the full sensory experience. They allow liberal testing of nearly all products, and will even give things away for free if you strike up a conversation with the vendors. This isn’t difficult, as they are all extremely friendly and happy to discuss their products. I asked one man what his heirloom tomatoes tasted like and he handed me a whole one, which I proceeded to eat like an apple. Bargaining is also an option—my last purchase was sugar snap peas and when I told them I only had one dollar left, they gave me a bag at half price.


If the ample samples of persimmons, tangerines and grapes do not satisfy your sweet tooth, head on over to the kettle corn stand. The vendor simply dips a folded newspaper into his giant vat of popped goodness and pours out however many warm kernels your two hands can hold. Next door, there is a table with at least a dozen open containers filled with Indian concoctions that range from mango lassi to red lentil curry, and they let you try all of them. Across from him, you’ll find the Mediterranean man, who has homemade pita in both fried and fresh-baked varieties, and countless open offerings of hummus, tabouli and baba ganouj. This area of the market also features other prepared foods, such as fresh tamales, corn on the cob, and a vegan spaghetti that was nothing to brag about.

To get a little fat in your diet, stop by one of the cheese or nut tables. One woman offered cheese curds in many varieties, but I found the plain fresh curds to be the best. California farms some of the country’s best pistachios, and one vendor offered them with different flavors—my favorite was the lemon zinger. The bakery stands featured great alternatives to your everyday white bread—one man sold gluten-free muffins and banana-chocolate brownies, while another offered yeast, wheat, and sugar-free sourdough bread.


Bluegrass bands play intermittently between tents, keeping spirits high in a sea of people literally stopping to smell the roses. I spent plenty of time at one spice booth, holding fresh thyme, lavender and lemon verbena to my nose. A woman was selling birds of paradise nearby, which she advertised to me as a great dorm flower that will last two weeks without much work. One man asked me to describe the difference between his yellow, orange and red carrots so that he would have a better idea of what to tell customers who made that inquiry—we decided the red was spicy, the yellow was bitter and the orange was sweet.


I entered the market with high hopes and a five-dollar bill in my pocket. I left with one pound of sugar snap peas, two heirloom tomatoes, one Satsuma orange, two sourdough olive rolls (one with orange peel and thyme), a sunflower, and a full brunch under my proverbial belt. Not only did I feel energized and productive, but I felt empowered knowing that those snap peas would be a guilt-free way to mindlessly munch while pounding out a 10-page research paper.

Thursday, November 9, 2006

Linni Eats L.A.: Dave's Chillin-n-Grillin

I first met Dave, the proprietor of Dave’s Chillin-N-Grillin, next door to his sandwich shop at Swörk, where I overheard the baristas inquiring about his morning vegetable hunt. He was enthusiastically touting the Reuben he would be making that day and the girls were swooning over the famed avocado he had apparently purchased. Curiosity moved me to interject, and all parties involved were shocked and concerned that I was a student at Oxy, yet had never set foot inside Dave’s.

To be honest, I had noticed the shop before and wasn’t that intrigued. The tiny space and bright purple awning with loud yellow letters didn’t immediately evoke thoughts of freshness, and I thought if I really wanted a greasy sandwich, I could go to the Cooler. But with the coffee girls’ culinary coercions and the proprietor’s sunny demeanor, I knew what I had to do.

I couldn’t have been more wrong about the freshness—Dave wakes up with the birds every morning to shop for the freshest ingredients, meaning that the menu is subject to delicious changes every day. He was out of avocado the day I went but one could hardly notice with the excellence of the other ingredients. My grilled sandwich was served on fresh-baked wheat bread and was filled with thin shaved turkey, mustard, tomato and mayo, all heated up on the griddle right in front of you. Dave’s turkey is special—he will only buy it with no water added and if he can’t get the 0% turkey that day, turkey subs are off the menu.

With the daily selection of sinfully aromatic roast beef, meatball, pastrami, salami, ham, and sometimes even crab, I don’t know how any vegetarian’s will-power could survive. However, if you are one of the strong ones, he offers a Greek Veggie Sub, served on sourdough smothered in oil and vinegar with pepperoncinis, tomato, olives, lettuce, and a substantial spreading of feta cheese.

If you devour your sub as quickly as I did (two halves overflowing with turkey in about five minutes) you might need some help washing it down. Look no further than the selection of smoothies, sherbert chillers and ice cream milk shakes. We switched things up a bit on the Blueberry Banana Bash, made on my visit with mixed berries instead due to a lack of fresh blueberries that day. I know it sounds crazy, but this tasted clean, and that was what made it so delicious. Some smoothies can taste artificially sweetened but the incredible saccharine quality in this was pure and natural, never watered or juiced-down. It was gone in a time span similar to that of the sub.

Dave, a Boston native, is friendly and open to talking about anything from his business to his hometown. His shop has old school arcade games and art from locals and legends like Salvador Dali. The sandwich-and-smoothie agenda may seem limited but the selections within each category are vast and ever-changing. The simplicity allows them to focus on making the best quality products a starving college student could ask for, and at six dollars for my sandwich and 4.50 for a big smoothie, the quality far exceeds the price. So if you’re waiting for motivation to come from Dave in the Swörk coffee line, stall no more. You really aren’t an Oxy student til you’ve tried this stuff.

2152 Colorado Blvd
Los Angeles, CA
Open Daily 11am-7pm
Cash Only

Saturday, October 28, 2006

Linni Eats L.A.: Providence


I realize that not everyone scours epicurean magazines as avidly as I do, but any Californian can appreciate that of Gourmet’s Top 50 Restaurants in America, the golden state is home to nine of them, with nearby Providence grabbing 35th place. Located at 5955 Melrose Ave. right by Paramount Studios, it is an Eden for sophisticated diners and celebrities. At $35 an entrée, it may require some saving or some whoring yourself out on the street. However, the artful plate designs and inventive ingredient combinations at Providence make it worthwhile, even if it’s reserved for special occasions.

Satin pillows adorn burgundy couches in the entryway and ceramic petals are clustered into the corners of tall ceilings. The kind host escorts you around the wet sand walls and dimly-lit white table cloths to your seat. There is an eclectic blend of mature touches, from dark wood to frosted glass panels in white frames. The waiters, dressed casual but chic in tan robes and black t-shirts, are available to answer any questions about the unusual menu items while Beck, Fiona Apple, and Neil Young emanate softly from the speakers.


I started with the Maine Lobster Bloody Mary, a salad of lobster and grape tomatoes with a tomato and celery gelee. It was joined by a celery sorbet with horseradish crème fraiche that highlighted the horseradish flavor without the painful, nostril-flaring heat it usually packs. I also tried the Foie Gras Parfait, which had a gel layer of Hungarian sweet wine and came with poached Asian pears, curry pear au jus, toasted brioche and foie gras powder. This all sounds kind of intimidating, but it’s good if you can handle that much foie gras—I thought the buttery texture was too rich after awhile.


Before the appetizers, the considerate wait staff brought us some spectacular amuse-bouche—free creations to sample while you wait. What looked like a mini mug of beer turned out to be a divinely rich melon soup with flavorful lime foam, paired alongside a soy marshmallow with crunchy wasabi seeds. The chef tries some wacky things, but you’re in good hands here. Our attentive waiter always came by between bites, when our mouths were not full, and the staff was conversational without being annoying.


Providence specializes in seafood, so for dinner I tried the Sea Scallops and Pacific Big Eye Tuna. Santa Barbara raw pistachios and Tahitian squash joined the scallops in a dish that plays mind games with your fork—think you’re stabbing into another pistachio or squash chunk? It’s actually sweet pistachio cream or squash puree. The scallops were velvety and nothing was overcooked, as squash and scallops can easily be. The tuna came with small chunks of chorizo, Japanese sword squid, fennel, and oven-dried tomatoes. The chorizo was very cured, which gave a strong flavor to everything, even the tuna. It was the heart of the dish, so make sure you really like chorizo before ordering this.


With such amazing savory samplings, one might expect a skimp on dessert. Not here, where I was shocked to find bizarre flavor combinations pleasing my palate. The Chocolate Mousse with Horchata ice cream and green avocado-banana puree had glazed sliced almonds and cookie crumbs as a garnish, and a brown sugar crust on the mousse. This mix seems to lack focus, but put a little of everything on a spoon and you’ll be astounded at the premeditated medley of textures and flavors. The same can be said for the Milk Chocolate Panna Cotta, with mini house-made marshmallows, cocoa-coconut streusel, and Kahlua sauce, where the creaminess of the panna cotta holds the family of ingredients together.


The chefs at Providence are truly inspired, but they check themselves. They don’t go out on limbs without knowing the delicious results and it shows. Ordering these types of dishes can be scary at first but doubt fades with every course here, all the way up to the dessert amuse-bouche that accompanied the check—orange spice caramels, dark chocolate peanut butter cups with sea salt, and raspberry gelees. These chefs never skip a beat, though with that chocolate mousse, my heart surely did.

Wednesday, October 25, 2006

Linni Eats L.A.: Auntie Em's


Life at Occidental can be tough when you don’t have wheels, especially when you’ve had it with cafeterias and silver roadside trucks. Fret not, ride-moochers—hope can be found at Auntie Em’s, the heavenly healthy market-fresh diner on Eagle Rock Boulevard, mere blocks from campus.

The brick-red exterior and cozy striped awnings lure you in, but it’s the cupcakes and their mountain of icing that keep you there. The day’s bakery creations are displayed near the entrance and the menu is written up on green chalkboards. The kitchen is open for everyone to see and pastry chefs ice cupcakes at nearby tables, covered with floral, vinyl tablecloths. Local art is displayed on the mandarin orange, butter yellow, and lime green walls and syrup served in glass Coke bottles adds to the quaint, kitschy atmosphere.

I sampled the daily specials of clam chowder and broccoli red pepper quiche with Gruyere cheese, and tasted a vegetarian sandwich with sprouts, avocado, cucumber, Gruyere, and tomato. All dishes are made with ingredients bought at local farmers’ markets, and the sandwich was served with a pickle that actually tasted like it was once a cucumber! It was steeped in vinegar with bay leaves and onion and was the perfect compliment to the mammoth sandwich.


The sizeable quiche slice went well with a flighty, French album that emanated from the speakers as the pastry purveyors tested batters and declared a batch of snickerdoodles too chewy. Each entrée was dished up on cute, random plates—the sandwich came on red and white gingham and the quiche on rustic orange floral, adding to the aura of being in a family kitchen. I was tempted by another mismatched casserole dish near the register that held rosewater rice pudding with a cinnamon pistachio topping, a thick and creamy indulgence that disappeared from my plate all too quickly.

On another visit, I had the privilege of trying their sandwich of the day, an autumnal treat of roast turkey, stuffing, and cranberry sauce. The spices in the stuffing and turkey were so reminiscent of my house at Thanksgiving, and eating it in that homey atmosphere was a great dining experience. Make sure you try the mint iced tea, a California warm-weather take on an old tummy-soothing favorite of mine. They even have fresh and dried mint leaves floating in it for maximum flavor.


The diner has an ever-changing menu of breakfast items made right in front of you, and an adjoining store that sells every specialty food item you never knew you needed. Let your eyes wander from classy confits to artisan cheeses, from frozen crab cakes to ceramic cookware, but don’t expect a deal here or in the restaurant. The quiche and sandwich were nine bucks each, and although they were good, they weren’t that good. The fresh ingredients might be worth it to some people, but even if you aren't one of them, at least make your way down to try one of Em’s bakery items. Trust me, you don't want to pass up these coconut cupcakes--did i mention they have cream cheese icing? And come on, no human should die without sampling a chocolate chip cookie that is larger than their face.

Open Mon-Fri 8am-7pm
Sat-Sun 8am-4pm, but get there earlier for the best bakery selections
4616 Eagle Rock Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90041
Photos c/o AuntieEmsKitchen.com

Monday, October 2, 2006

Linni Eats L.A.: Burger Continental

As if having a burger selection worthy of naming your restaurant after it wasn't enough, the owners of Old Town Pasadena's Burger Continental took it one step further. Or maybe nine steps further. OK--a bafillion steps, but who's counting?

Their overwhelmingly diverse selection of dishes might have you standing in line staring at your menu for days if it weren't for the adorably complimentary men who come up to take your order. I kid you not, when I ordered my baklava, the man said "YOU are a baklava, you lovely girl! You're the baklava, so beautiful!" Hey, if nothing else, you can count on B.C.'s for an ego boost. But they will deliver so much more.

The restaurant spreads back from the miniscule entryroom into a vast, enclosed garden patio with romanticly dim lighting, vines creeping up the walls, and a band that is often accompanied by belly dancers. Keep going and you will reach yet another back room, kept closed for cooler nights but with windows that disappear if the al fresco mood strikes. Before taking a seat, however, you must place your order in front at the counter and help yourself to the Mediterranean salad and soup bar, equipped with a delicious vegetable soup and the best red, spiced couscous I have ever tasted.

I sampled the Mediterranean Salad, which is not actually a salad at all but just the ideal all-in-one plate for someone wanting the typical sampling of falafel, hummus, grape leaves, and taboule. It also includes Armenian cheese boreg and a cream-based chunky eggplant sauce similar to baba ganouj. The grape leaves were delicious and the flavors on the plate all blended together wonderfully when put together on a pita, all for under $9. Next up, I had to sample the restaurant's namesake, and the Alamo burger seemed like the best bet. This came with bacon, gaucamole, cheddar cheese, grilled onion, and tomato on a grilled sourdough bun, all for under $7 and I could have eaten about six of these. Of course, that would probably have made my heart stop and then who would be telling you all about this wonderful place?

I feel that this does not do B.C.'s justice, as their menu also includes zucchini fries, a plethora of pizzas and pita sandwiches, steak and seafood specialties, Armenian, Greek, and Middle Eastern dishes, and a menu section entitled "Continental Baja Baja." With a great atmosphere, low prices, and high quality, there is really no reason to not check this place out. An added bonus is the rumor that they do not card college kids, a plus for any nearby Occidental or Cal-Tech students looking for an exciting new weekend destination or place to take an awkward first date. Nothing like spicy frog legs and margaritas to break the ice!


All kidding aside, I depart with this image for you to keep in mind when ordering dessert--even though it was some of the best baklava I have ever had, do NOT order this unless you a) have multiple friends or strangers willing to share, or b) you are going through a bad breakup. It is also worth noting that any of the other desserts in the alluring front window, chocolate cakes and strawberry tarts alike, are offered in similar portion size. Whether it's that time of the month, you're partying with a group of 50, or if you're just a plain old fatty, this is the place for you.

Burger Continental
535 South Lake Ave.
Pasadena, CA 91101
(626) 792-6634
Open Daily 7am-11pm
All You Can Eat-->
Breakfast Buffet
Mon-Sat 7:30am-11am, $4.99!
Lunch Buffet
Mon-Sat 11am-3pm, $8.99!

Friday, September 29, 2006

Linni Eats L.A.: Gaby's Mediterranean



Tucked between a flashy sushi joint and a Starbucks, it would be easy to pass quickly by Gaby’s Mediterranean at 10445 Venice Blvd, but don’t be deterred by the meek blue awning that boasts “Creating a Healthy Habit Everyday!” Even if you’re in a hurry to escape the mumbling bum who followed you from the beach, give this surprisingly delicious ethnic establishment a chance.

You can watch the onslaught of Schwinn Stingrays and skateboards float by if you sit outside, but the midday rush makes this difficult. Once inside, you might get distracted by the dessert case, but hurry up and sit down because no sooner will your butt hit the seat before they are bringing baskets of warm pita and plates of zaatar, the house specialty sauce made with olive oil, sesame seeds, oregano and thyme with diced onions and tomatoes. I lost count of how many of these they brought us.

The falafel came out a little mushy in the center and the grape leaves were too minty for my taste, but they don’t slack on the old hummus standby, which was served on a huge plate with lemon juice and spices. Don’t be afraid to branch out beyond the basics, though—just because you can’t pronounce it doesn’t mean it isn’t amazing! I recommend rakakat, a puff pastry roll filled with cheese, onions, and tomatoes. If you’ve got leftover pita, soak it up in the creamy, tangy pureed golden lentil soup, or the garlic cream sauce that comes with the rotisserie chicken entrée.

It’s easy to order too much food with their ludicrously low prices, but save room for dessert. The menu lists many enticing choices, but only the baklava was available when I visited. It was made with cashews and orange blossom honey, but was a little on the mild side despite these unique additions. Even though some areas need work, there were still so many mysteriously named items I can’t wait to come back and try. Open from 11am-1am, it’s a great spot for those late nights when the thought of another dorm party or Taco Truck run makes you want to hide in the closet.

Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Linni Eats L.A.: The Omelette Parlor

Preface: I have packed up my bags and moved to Southern California this fall, so my apologies to any Chicago readers who cannot attend the restaurants I will be writing about. I now have a food column in the weekly newspaper at Occidental College and will be writing on a variety of Los Angeles restaurants--hopefully you can all come out here to try them sometime!

Some people come to Occidental College for the sense of community, talented teaching staff, or abundance of palm trees—I came for its proximity to The Omelette Parlor.


I first experienced breakfast heaven at this Santa Monica Pier eatery while visiting Oxy last spring and their old-fashioned beachside charm won my heart. The name was enticing enough, but the Colonial décor, lace-covered windows and Surfer Crossing sign didn’t hurt. You can sit in the vintage main dining room, at the soda shop counter, or on the outdoor patio, quaintly enclosed by brick walls lined with vines and flowers.


You might go in expecting an omelette, but prepare to be blown away by their extensive menu. I got oatmeal with the works, which included walnuts, raisins, strawberries and bananas and made me feel full without feeling like a fatty. You can also get it with a warm banana topping; both come with their honey-nut English muffin and apple butter, served with all main dishes.


After dreaming about it all summer, I returned this fall for an omelette. They have creative recipes like the Renter’s Rights, which has bacon, potato and sour cream, but I made my own with sausage, feta, tomato, and spinach. Omelettes come with a side of fruit and an English muffin and the egg dish itself is about the size of my American Experiences textbook, so save room for this or split it with a friend if you’re strapped for cash. An omelette should only set you back about eight bucks, and the oatmeal was around four.

The chef makes a daily pancake, raspberry or butterscotch nut to name a few, and they’re also known for their diced potatoes. Service is timely even during peak hours and its location on Main Street is perfect for a weekend shopping trip. Surfing got you beat? Sick of scrambling to find a decent breakfast at home? Come to this affordable adorable café at 2732 Main St. and get your omelette on.

Monday, May 15, 2006

Linni Eats Chicago: Ann Sather's


If you don't like the sound of free cinnamon rolls the size of baseball gloves--well, you might be crazy. But you also might want to head over to Chicago's legendary breakfast mecca, Ann Sather's, so they can change your mind. The hearty serving of two cinnamon rolls with every entree is a pleasant alternative to your run-of-the-mill restaurant bread bowl.

This authentic Swedish dining room got its start on Belmont and has since spread to 5 locations throughout Chicago. The restaurant's namesake moved here from Scandinavia and opened the Belmont spot in 1945. Her original cinnamon roll recipe is still served today, and can be purchased to go if you don't have time to eat in.


On this particular rainy Sunday, I found myself at the Andersonville location, a two-story space designed with Swedish floral wallpaper and traditional, comforting decor. It has a great ambience, very old-fashioned, yet frequented by anyone from church-goers to the heavily-pierced couple with matching eggs benedicts next to our table.

We were seated on the second floor, and were eating in the drought between lunch and breakfast crowds. Our expedited service may or may not have been a result of this, but we were definitely never left hungry. The waitstaff were extremely friendly, but not annoyingly chatty. Our cinnamon rolls were on the table in no time in all their glorioius gooeyness. Bear in mind that you get two cinnamon rolls in one order, so definitely plan on splitting with others at your table. I would also recommend taking some home to heat up in the microwave later. Our waiter actually gave us a few leftovers to take home, free of charge, due to the switch to lunch patrons.


Our entrees were out in no time--I ordered Debbie's Delight, a serving of oatmeal on a plate, topped with rice porridge, dried cranberries and apricots, raisins, and granola. This medley may sound a little over-the-top, but I was supremely satisfied. A fellow diner of mine tried the potato pancakes served with applesauce and sour cream. The pancakes were not as potato-y as we expected, but we decided to trust the Swedes working in the kitchen over our own American assumptions. I also got to sample two omelettes, both of which were a little disproportionate--the salmon, cream cheese, and asparagus dish looked as though a filet of smoked salmon and a slab of cream cheese had been placed in the center of it and not mixed at all, and the goat cheese omelette had a definite surplus of cheese. These egg dishes were made with quality ingredients and both tasted amazing once you do the mixing yourself, but you shouldn't have to.

You won't spend too much here, average entrees run from $8-15. There is an entire case of pastries, breads, and of course, cinnamon rolls on the ground floor of the Andersonville location, as well as the Belmont location. These both feature large, full-scale dining rooms. The newer additions have a more cafe-feel and are usually in smaller spaces with possibly more limited menus.

Andersonville
5207 N. Clark
773-271-6677
7-2:30 Mon-Fri
7-4 Sat & Sun
Closed Tuesday
For a complete list of locations, phone numbers, and hours, visit their website at www.annsather.com

Friday, May 12, 2006

Linni Eats Oak Park: Cafe Le Coq


Tucked away between a small town bakery and mainstream stir fry joint, Cafe Le Coq doesn't immediately stand out from the plethora of dining options available to folks in the Western suburb of Oak Park. On a rather homey stretch of Lake street, some people find this turn-of-the-century French bistro kind of intimidating.

I was pleasantly surprised at the charming and unpretentious vibe. The collection of chicken figurines and paintings are highlighted by a dimly-lit honeyed glow and, despite the obvious presence of candles, chandeliers, and manners, it requires no effort to feel at ease here. Many are under the misconception that Cafe le Coq requires elegant attire and a Parisienne accent, but this is not so.

We ordered from an authentic waiter who was speaking French to the table behind us, and shortly after were greeted with tiny ceramic tureens of roasted garlic and tomato soup. This delectable complimentary touch is something all restaurants should do--one of my companions ordered this very soup as a result of the sampler!

This was not, however, the favorite at our table. The soup du jour was carrot curry, served in similar adorable ceramic bowls, and was the perfect combination of sweet and spicey. I believe there was cinnamon or clove in it in addition to the curry, and it was topped with a crunchy baquette slice covered with melted cheese, or au gratin, as the French would say. Both this and the tomato soup were fantastic paired with the pumpkin seed bread from the bread bowl.


Next course was the cheese plate, which features a melange of cheeses selected by the chef, alongside an apple slaw with sliced almonds. One fromage favorite was the Comte, which was the perfect firmness and balance of sweet and nutty flavor. Despite also having a great brie, the star of the platter was the Roquefort bleu cheese. It practically combusted in my mouth with this sweet crumble that wasn't too dry or too bitter, as a bleu often can be. The density of flavor can't be explained by just "sweet," as there was a diversity of tastes going on in my mouth at once. You will just have to go and taste for yourself!

I ordered the crab cakes off of the appetizer menu, not even aware that they were crab cakes. My 5 years of secondary school French did me no good when I read the title of this hors d'oeuvre, whose translation listed only crab meat, red peppers, and a cream sauce. That was enough to entice me, and I am glad it did as I am always open to a crab cake! If you are going to order your entree from the appetizer menu, however, be warned--they are not the most sizeable portions. My order involved two crab cakes, one inch tall and one inch in diameter, and someone dining with me ordered a goat cheese and onion tart that looked like a dessert tart.


Both appetizers were quality dishes, and perfect compliments to our soup orders. The crab cake itself was a wonderfully flakey medallion that held together really well, and its whole-grain mustard sauce sparked around on my tongue without overwhelming the flavor of the crab. I only wish they hadn't put so much sauce, a problem easily solved by the addition of some more cakes.

Others dining with me enjoyed the bouillabaise and the mussels, which reportedly could have had a stronger sauce. As this was my first experience with clams or mussels, I can't comment on the sauce quality, but despite my initial reaction to the texture, it tasted great, albeit a little salty.


As it should be for all French restaurants, the dessert menu was a thing of beauty. One of my companions ordered the chocolate mousse with strawberries, which was served in a crepe, wrapped into an upright cone. Another had the Tart a la Creme Brulee, which bore strong resemblance to the goat cheese tart at dinner, but possessed a much different taste. It wasn't bad, but I found it lacked the signature vanilla bean flavor that its name suggests. I was, of course, drawn in by the Creme Brulee Trio, as I am always anxious to try new flavors of my favorite dessert. The samplings were classic vanilla, chocolate, and caramel. I was still most taken with classic vanilla--although the caramel was an interesting juxtaposition of flavor with texture, the chocolate just felt like chocolate pudding to me.

Though the menu can be hard to read, this bistro definitely won me over with the quality of its food, pleasant staff, and overall charm. I will definitely be coming back to try some more interesting seafood--perhaps I can comment on the mussels' sauce next time!

Seating is available outside in the summer months, and you may want to make reservations on busy nights.
Cafe Le Coq
734 Lake St.
Oak Park, IL
708-848-2233
Open for dinner Tue-Thu 5-9:30
Fri-Sat 5-10:30
Sunday brunch 11-2:30
Sunday dinner 4-9
Closed Monday
Average Entree $15-25

Thursday, May 4, 2006

Linni Eats Chicago: The Walnut Room


My first thought upon entering Marshall Field's famed Walnut Room was that they have more tables than they will ever be able to use. The restaurant's 17000 square feet of space seemed superfluous, if not even a little presumptuous. We didn't even mention our reservation as we were lead to a table at the base of a gigantic ballerina, with a skirt made of fine china and a curtain of ballet shoes encasing her. This towering figurine is replaced by an even more colossal Christmas tree during the winter months, a time when not only are all of the tables booked, but there is an hour-long waiting list at all hours of the day!


It felt a bit unorthodox to be making my first visit to this famed establishment on a clammy Wednesday evening in May, when the Circassian wood archways and Austrian chandeliers shone only for a scarce and scattered crowd of theatre patrons. Alas, we too had tickets to a show at the Goodman and thought we would give this 7th floor specialty, hidden within the beloved State Street Marshall Field's, an opportunity to wow us.

Theatre-goers get special privileges here--we were promised a 45 minute dining experience, which included free dessert--you just have to flash your ticket stub. But I am getting ahead of myself here, dessert comes later! I settled in with the Crab Bisque to start, which came to the table in about 5 minutes and was divine. The hint of sherry made it an incredibly silky affair, while the actual pieces of crabmeat gave it more substance than the flimsy seafood bisques I have had in the past. Definitely a great way to start the meal.

The entree was a more difficult choice. The Walnut Room is famous for their Chicken Pot Pie, the dish that actually got the restaurant started in the 1890s, when a Marshall Field's employee cooked pot pies for her lunch and decided to start selling them to hungry shoppers. I was also tempted by the Butternut Squash Ravioli, which was served in a light sage cream sauce with dried cranberries, baby spinach, leeks, and roasted peppers, and topped with parmesan cheese and walnut pesto. (I couldn't believe this was the only mention of walnuts I saw on the menu!) I decided, however, to continue with the seafood theme and order the Seared Scallop Salad, which included leeks, pineapple, red peppers, Savoy cabbage, and baby greens, all topped with shoestring potatoes and a pineapple vinaigrette.

Before I go on, you should know something about me--I could compete in speed-eating contests if I thought it wouldn't ruin my metabolism. In fact, I could probably make a living at said contests. I know that as a "foodie," it is my job to savor, to thoroughly enjoy and hang on every bite, picking out undertones, moving pieces around in my mouth, letting my taste buds soak in the sauces for a moment...that just isn't me. I do that occasionally, especially if there is a good creme brulee involved, but if a dish stands apart from all others, the way I hope most dishes to be, I have difficulty stopping myself. I know, I know, I'm getting help.


That said, this scallop endeavor was...mediocre. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't gagging, but let's just say it was the kind of entree where I didn't mind putting my fork down for awhile to tell my fellow diners a story. The shoestring taters and scallops had this burnt flavor, which couldn't have been on purpose. The leeks were raw and placed on the sides of the plate, as was the pineapple. Unlike the pineapple, however, no one wants to make an extra effort to eat leeks, there is no motivation there, especially when it is raw. At least the pineapple was grilled, I gobbled that up right away.


I didn't feel bad leaving room for dessert, and I had glimpsed a creme brulee at a table nearby. But this classy eatery's location inside Marshall Field's gives their dessert chefs access to Frango chocolates, and their most popular item is the Frango Mint Chocolate Chip Pie. I wanted to, I was tempted, I really was, but I have a relationship with creme brulee. We love eachother. It relies on me to order it wherever possible, and I rely on it to make that beautiful sound when I hit it with my spoon. Besides, chocolate makes me breakout.

So I ordered my one and only, and as is almost always the case, I was satisfied. The wonderful crack was music to my ears, the crust was not too thick or too thin, and the custard itself was sublime. My only complaint would be that the top was broiled a bit unevenly, with some spots a bit more burnt than others. This place needs to calm down, take a deep breath, and stop burning everything!


My fellow patrons both ordered the famous Chicken Pot Pie, which came with a nice spinach and mandarin salad with sesame dressing. Be warned, however, this is not the down-home country pot pie you get at Boston Market (don't lie, you know you love it)--the "pie" is more like a chicken soup with two oversized triangles of puff-pastry on top. According to them, however, it was still delicious. They also ordered peach cobbler and key lime pie, of which no complaints were made. The crust on the key lime pie actually made me want to snatch the fork out of my grandma's hand and nab me some of that thick, crumbly, golden goodness, but my loyalties were with the creme brulee.

The experience was nice and elegant overall. The waitstaff seemed experienced and polite, not the snooty 20-somethings you sometimes get stuck with at American Contemporary dining locales. It is a calming oasis in the middle of a hectic shopping environment, although I am sure that tranquility wears off in the holiday season. Despite my complaints, I definitely look forward to coming back for that ravioli...and maybe also some Frango pie, but I can't make any promises.

The Walnut Room
111 N. State St., 7th Floor
Chicago, IL
312-781-3125
Open 7 days a week, 11am-4pm
Holiday hours (post-Thanksgiving to early January)
Mon-Wed. 8am-one hour before store closing
Sunday 9am-6pm
Average Entree $8-15
Accessible by CTA Red, Green, Purple, Brown, & Orange line trains at Washington stop

Thursday, April 27, 2006

Linni Eats Chicago: Irazu



On an unfrequented and bleak strip of Milwaukee Avenue, you might not give a passing glance to the tiny green hut on the corner. Look again, my friend, for there resides Irazu, one of Chicago's only Costa Rican restaurants that boasts fare so exotic that the first half of the menu is definitions.

Now, don't let the language intimidate you--Avena is just a fancy name for the eatery's signature drink, an oatmeal milkshake. Yes, you read that correctly--an oatmeal shake strongly reminiscent of the Mexican rice drink, Horchata, but delicious nonetheless. And that cinnamon-topped specialty isn't all--other shake flavors include corn meal, blackberry, and exotic Central American fruits such as the tamarindo and mamey, a mild apricot-raspberry flavor that will give you cavities on the spot.

Yuca is another menu favorite, a potato-like root vegetable that can be served boiled or fried. We chose the fried option, which was topped with garlic oil and deep-brown bits of roasted garlic. It tasted amazing at first, but proved a little too greasy for my taste. Just make sure you don't fill up on this or the salty-greasy tortilla chips--both are out of this world, but a little heavy.


I was looking forward to the gallo pinto, a Costa Rican breakfast of white rice and black beans served with fried plantains or eggs. This was served every morning when I visited Costa Rica, and it was hard to overcome that craving when I returned to the regular American pancake breakfast. Irazu's take on this authentic dish featured the rice and beans molded into a delectable dome and served with steaming aromatic corn tortillas. I chose the fried plantains, which were another oily-yet-extraordinary menu item--they could create a new genre of food with their collection of fried, heavy treats! A dining accomplice of mine chose the gallo pinto with scrambled eggs, which featured diced onions for a surprise twist of flavor.

We were served promptly by an adorably authentic old man who spoke minimal english and seemed a little aloof. You won't have to wait long for any menu item--the vegetarian burrito, steak tostada, two gallo pintos, and order of fried yuca took under 15 minutes. There is ample outdoor and indoor seating, although the food must speak for itself in this minimalistic environment. The slightly drab interior might be more seductive if you visit at night, but I would eat Irazu's unique and consistent cuisine from a street vendor if that was what it took.

Very affordable, most entrees under $8.

Irazu
1865 N. Milwaukee
Chicago, IL
(773)252-5687
Open Monday-Saturday-10am-9pm
Closed Sunday
Accessible by the Blue Line- .2 miles southeast from the Western stop on Milwaukee