Thank god I refrained from this silly path. Newport Beach's Il Farro is currently staging a comeback for farro, a rare organic grain spilling over with health benefits and rich flavor. Learning this and spotting the dessert tray, I knew I had to abandon all hopes of dietary reservation and dive into this experience, fork first.
We were given a basket of bread, baked with farro grains that were visible and gave a wholesome, nutty taste to the warm loaf. Next came the enormous menus and supplementary specials list and a brief panic overcame me--everything looked amazing. Do I order the lobster ravioli with walnut sauce? The farro risotto with pancetta and white wine sauce? I decided on two of the day's specials--Shrimp Bisque and Pumpkin Gnocchi with vodka cream sauce. The bisque arrived at the perfect temperature and was creamy without being too milky. The flavor could have been a bit more explosive, but the consistency was excellent. Baby shrimp give me the creeps sometimes but these did not distract from the soup's texture--they were just as velvety as the rest of it. The gnocchi had just the right amount of subtle pumpkin flavor, and the chef didn't overdo it by adding any orange dye--the dish was a greyish hue, accented by the purple grilled onions in the sauce.
I also had the opportunity to sample the fettucine with sundried tomatoes, salmon, and scallops. This was absolutley breath-taking. I performed the dietary double-take we all know, where you take a bite and immediately bug out your eyes and unabashedly shout an exclamation with your mouth still full of food. The smokiness of the salmon in this dish mixed with the lavish earthiness of the tomatoes formed the epitome of taste perfection. My gnocchi was nothing short of outstanding, but I did experience some fetuccine envy across the table.
We grudgingly decided it would be wrong to miss out on dessert, despite already-extended bellies. The waiter brought a tray with at least ten choices. I ordered the panna cotta while my dining companions sampled something that looked like chocolate pie and home-made biscotti, served with a glass of amaretto for dipping. The feel of the egg-free panna cotta was sublime--like a creme brulee without the excess load of guilt and egg yolk. The biscotti bursted with flavor and purposeful crunch, unlike the stale, tooth-cracking bricks you find at corporate coffeehouses. The pie dish had a crust made with farro grain, woven into a lattice on top. Presentation was pleasing without trying too hard, a feeling that permeates the establishment. The spectacular food thrives in a simplistic atmosphere, small but dressed to the nines in remnants of Italy. Both the owner and chef came by to make sure we were enjoying ourselves, but they had no reason to worry. Everyone there was having a good time.
We arrived at 6:30 on a Friday and had no trouble getting a table, but any later than that and we may have encountered a wait. There is an outdoor seating section that looks out onto the Newport pier restaurant strip, but it is less cozy and warm than the glowing interior. Wherever you choose to sit, Il Farro has something for everyone, from their extensive wine list to their fresh, authentic ingredients. Rumor has it, you can ask the chef to make you anything in the Italian genre of food and he will make it, provided he has all of the necessary components. This kind of focus on pleasing your individual palate makes you feel like you are in the kitchen of your best friend--if your best friend could cook the best damn salmon fettucine this world has ever tasted.
All pictures c/o http://www.ilfarro.com/restaurant.htm
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