Friday, May 12, 2006

Linni Eats Oak Park: Cafe Le Coq


Tucked away between a small town bakery and mainstream stir fry joint, Cafe Le Coq doesn't immediately stand out from the plethora of dining options available to folks in the Western suburb of Oak Park. On a rather homey stretch of Lake street, some people find this turn-of-the-century French bistro kind of intimidating.

I was pleasantly surprised at the charming and unpretentious vibe. The collection of chicken figurines and paintings are highlighted by a dimly-lit honeyed glow and, despite the obvious presence of candles, chandeliers, and manners, it requires no effort to feel at ease here. Many are under the misconception that Cafe le Coq requires elegant attire and a Parisienne accent, but this is not so.

We ordered from an authentic waiter who was speaking French to the table behind us, and shortly after were greeted with tiny ceramic tureens of roasted garlic and tomato soup. This delectable complimentary touch is something all restaurants should do--one of my companions ordered this very soup as a result of the sampler!

This was not, however, the favorite at our table. The soup du jour was carrot curry, served in similar adorable ceramic bowls, and was the perfect combination of sweet and spicey. I believe there was cinnamon or clove in it in addition to the curry, and it was topped with a crunchy baquette slice covered with melted cheese, or au gratin, as the French would say. Both this and the tomato soup were fantastic paired with the pumpkin seed bread from the bread bowl.


Next course was the cheese plate, which features a melange of cheeses selected by the chef, alongside an apple slaw with sliced almonds. One fromage favorite was the Comte, which was the perfect firmness and balance of sweet and nutty flavor. Despite also having a great brie, the star of the platter was the Roquefort bleu cheese. It practically combusted in my mouth with this sweet crumble that wasn't too dry or too bitter, as a bleu often can be. The density of flavor can't be explained by just "sweet," as there was a diversity of tastes going on in my mouth at once. You will just have to go and taste for yourself!

I ordered the crab cakes off of the appetizer menu, not even aware that they were crab cakes. My 5 years of secondary school French did me no good when I read the title of this hors d'oeuvre, whose translation listed only crab meat, red peppers, and a cream sauce. That was enough to entice me, and I am glad it did as I am always open to a crab cake! If you are going to order your entree from the appetizer menu, however, be warned--they are not the most sizeable portions. My order involved two crab cakes, one inch tall and one inch in diameter, and someone dining with me ordered a goat cheese and onion tart that looked like a dessert tart.


Both appetizers were quality dishes, and perfect compliments to our soup orders. The crab cake itself was a wonderfully flakey medallion that held together really well, and its whole-grain mustard sauce sparked around on my tongue without overwhelming the flavor of the crab. I only wish they hadn't put so much sauce, a problem easily solved by the addition of some more cakes.

Others dining with me enjoyed the bouillabaise and the mussels, which reportedly could have had a stronger sauce. As this was my first experience with clams or mussels, I can't comment on the sauce quality, but despite my initial reaction to the texture, it tasted great, albeit a little salty.


As it should be for all French restaurants, the dessert menu was a thing of beauty. One of my companions ordered the chocolate mousse with strawberries, which was served in a crepe, wrapped into an upright cone. Another had the Tart a la Creme Brulee, which bore strong resemblance to the goat cheese tart at dinner, but possessed a much different taste. It wasn't bad, but I found it lacked the signature vanilla bean flavor that its name suggests. I was, of course, drawn in by the Creme Brulee Trio, as I am always anxious to try new flavors of my favorite dessert. The samplings were classic vanilla, chocolate, and caramel. I was still most taken with classic vanilla--although the caramel was an interesting juxtaposition of flavor with texture, the chocolate just felt like chocolate pudding to me.

Though the menu can be hard to read, this bistro definitely won me over with the quality of its food, pleasant staff, and overall charm. I will definitely be coming back to try some more interesting seafood--perhaps I can comment on the mussels' sauce next time!

Seating is available outside in the summer months, and you may want to make reservations on busy nights.
Cafe Le Coq
734 Lake St.
Oak Park, IL
708-848-2233
Open for dinner Tue-Thu 5-9:30
Fri-Sat 5-10:30
Sunday brunch 11-2:30
Sunday dinner 4-9
Closed Monday
Average Entree $15-25

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