Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Linni Eats L.A.: Cafe Cordiale

We can all appreciate the age-old pastime of going out to dinner with friends, but occasionally an evening needs more substance than the simple pleasures of a good meal. Look no further than Café Cordiale, a charming late-night spot in Sherman Oaks that is also open for lunch during the week and brunch on the weekends.


Café Cordiale features aspiring musicians that perform while you dine every Thursday-Saturday night. The acts stand in front of a red velvet curtain, separating them from the bustling kitchen. The restaurant is divided into two rooms by sliding glass doors that are pulled open to include all diners in the private concert. The candlelit tables and exposed brick walls are charmed by the assortment of wooden chairs and upholstered benches.

Waiters in formal wear brought out the first course, which consisted of Salmon and Lobster cakes and Appetizer Pizza. The cakes were served with deliciously fresh mixed greens and a light mustard sauce and offered an interesting new take on your average crab cake. The pizza, which had a flashy menu description, arrived on a boring circular plate looking like it came from Domino’s. The breadbasket was equally uninspired, making it evident that they must not have a baker on staff.


I waited patiently for my cup of the daily soup special, Carrot Ginger, and had forgotten about it by the time our entrees arrived. The Butter Lettuce Salad featured asparagus, avocado, bleu cheese, tomatoes and pine nuts and the chef was kind enough to add a salmon filet for me. This all went together beautifully, and the salmon was equally outstanding when served alone with a delicate dill and shallot cream sauce. The Grilled Orange Roughy made me do a double-take, cooked to some sweet perfection I had never before experienced in a white fish. The daily special Filet Mignon, as well as all other meat and seafood entrees, were served with a refreshing combination of squash, zucchini and broccoli, cooked without the excess butter that often weighs veggies down.

Our waitress must have gone on break when I remembered my absent soup. By the time she resurfaced, I was full and the first musician of the night had begun to perform in the tri-weekly Acoustic Cordiale act. The volume was just loud enough to demand your attention, while still allowing for some side conversation about what desserts to order.


We settled on the Black & White Chocolate Mousse cake and Crème Brulee, sadly saving the Bread Pudding with dried apricots and French Apple Tarte Tatin for next time. The mousse resembled cheesecake with its double-decker white-and-dark chocolate creams stacked atop an Oreo cookie crust. The chef had achieved the perfect texture for the crème brulee crust, which had no burnt spots and was joined by a generous piling of strawberries.


It was probably the slowest I have ever eaten a crème brulee, but it is worth post-poning the meal as long as you can to hear the music, even on amateur acoustic night. The café usually features R&B/Jazz groups on Thursdays and Saturdays, R&B on Fridays, and Rock or Acoustic on Wednesdays. Their schedule is available online at http://www.cafecordiale.com. The menu can be a bit of a gamble, but the stirring atmosphere and quality of certain dishes makes it worth the drive.

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