Well, it's summer and I have officially returned to the gusty winds and moody weather of Chicago. What better way to celebrate my arrival than a trip to the legendary Johnnie's Italian Beef in Elmwood Park? On the long stretch of North Avenue leading to the airport, Johnnie's tempts me to stay each time I depart for Los Angeles and I have daydreams of the juiciness as I suffer through southern California's dry heat.
Daydreams no more, my month-long cravings were satisfied on a recent trip to the miniscule store front that hides massive flavor. One step in the door and the smell alone reminded me of what I had been missing. No dreams of Johnnie's beef could do it justice, not even aromatic memories. The usual line extended out the door, but was actually pretty small for this time of year. Throngs will soon come from all corners of Chicago to wrap around the building like a necklace of summer salivations, frought with the anticipation of such a primal satisfaction.
You can spot the folks who have been here before by the way they order. "I'll take one beef, almost dry," requests one plump man, whose well-fed belly stretches out the front of his White Sox World Series Champs t-shirt. Another customer steps up behind him, this time a younger boy--"Two spicy beefs, two fries." This kid knows his stuff so well, he doesn't bother with any extraneous words. Others follow, hopefully knowing what they are doing or with someone who does. An aged woman, clearly a seasoned Johnnie's veteran, orders an extra-juicy beef and I look down at the tiny counter where my sandwich is propped, wishing I had ordered it a little more sauced. The no-nonsense workers behind the counter seem like the intimidating type, but they will actually accomodate just about any requests regarding juice and spice.
If you're feeling especially carnivorous (as I so often am) order a combo--this has an Italian sausage embedded in the beef sandwich, soaking up whatever amount of juice you've stipulated, providing a spicy kick to the surrounding meat and appropriately soaked bun. Their menu also offers tamales and hot dogs, but those in the know come here for one reason and one reason only--to get a taste of the best Italian beef in Chicago, the Midwest, and possibly even the United States.
