Thursday, March 29, 2007

Linni Eats L.A.: Mi Piace


Los Angeles has the most competitive restaurant scene I've ever witnessed. There are perfectly good restaurants that I wouldn't go back to eagerly, simply because there are so many new places to try. Why waste time eating somewhere you have already tried when you could test out that hot new Thai Latin fusion everyone's been talking about? Or that classic Italian trattoria that you can't believe you haven't tried yet? For me, wanting to visit a restaurant twice is an enormous compliment--you have got to have one hell of a menu for me to think there is something worth coming back for. This is not food elitism--it is the simple reality of living in this melting pot of people, cultures, and kitchens.


That said, I have found a restaurant I will willingly take guests to, will happily open the doors of time and time again, and that place is Mi Piace, an Italian showcase of glamour and glitz on the Colorado strip. Outdoor seating stretches the distance of three store-fronts and couples with dogs casually co-exist with elegant groups and hostesses who are too pretty for their own good. Your typical L.A. woman can be found in front of the dessert case, picking at her salad and trying not to glance up at the shining glass box of pastries that are actually prettier than the hostesses.

Seating varies from large wooden tables to low-riding white leather booths that require some mild gymnastics to get comfortable in. Once that is settled, a lively waiter will likely grace you with his presence, dripping with the charisma of an aspiring actor. He will bring you their trademark herb bread, delicious alone but out of this world with their vinegar-olive oil plate, poured simultaneously at the table to create a beautiful split.

The Fiammiferi di Zucchini, or crispy zucchini sticks, arrived next with a spicy roasted sweet bell pepper sauce. These were only ok, but no one noticed because our other appetizer was the Calamari Fritti, which came with a housemade lime, cilantro, and jalapeno dipping sauce that knocked us back in our loungey leather seats. These threatened to fill us up, as did the next course, salads. Insalata di Spinaci was a baby spinach dish tossed with dried Michigan cherries, sliced strawberries, caramalized pecans, California goat cheese, and a star anise apple cider balsamic dressing. The description alone is a mouthful, and the taste was equally overwhelming in the best possible way.

The absolute star of the meal arrived for me next--Ravioli Al Burro E Salvia, ricotta and pumpkin ravioli in brown butter and creamy pesto sauce. The creaminess of this dish forced me to close my eyes momentarily, and the lids continued to flutter as I detected strong hints of sage from the leaves perched atop the fresh pasta. The ravioli, made entirely from scratch, was featherlight and thin, just strong enough to hold it's heavenly sweet pumpkin interior, which tasted exactly like Thanksgiving.


One of the day's specials, the Osso Bucco di Vitello, featured a slow-braised veal shank with port wine, julienne of carrots, onions, celery, tomatoes, and fresh thyme, all atop a mushroom risotto. This came close to the angelic status of my previous dish, and next in line was the Petti di Pollo, a roasted free-range chicken breast stuffed with mozzarella, pesto, and basil and served with a couscous-fresh vegetable medley in a creamy roasted garlic sauce. Their side pasta dishes all shine the brightest--it is clear that the couscous and risotto were made from nothing but flour, eggs, and dedication to good food.

I really enjoyed the feeling that Mi Piace knew me, understood how I operated and could push just far enough without filling me up. Your typical Italian joint loads you up with enough pasta to feed a family of marathon runners, and many would argue that is tradition and that is how it should be. Mi Piace, however, also prides themselves on their bakery--all bread and desserts are made by their own Pasadena Baking Company. Luckily, the portion sizes were perfect to leave us ready and willing to tackle that dessert case in front. Throwing caution to the wind, we ordered a dreamy mango mousse, the New York style cheesecake, the mysterious banana pyramid, and a miniature apple pie. Some of these may sound basic, but believe me, they were not.


The apple pie held a secret savory dash of rosemary, which elevated the American flavor to gourmet status. The cheesecake came in a neat circular unit, seated atop a brownie crust, rolled in chocolate sprinkles, and capped by decadent chocolate frosting and caramelized pecans. The mango dish was more like a petit four, with an airy cake surrounded by a thick mango sauce. The mystery of the banana pyramid was solved, much to my delight, when we discovered a banana cream filling on a thick chocolate crust, rolled in almond chips. This was all presented so beautiful, we almost didn't want to eat them.


On top of all the spectacular things we did try, there were at least five other menu items I need to come back for. To give you an idea of how extensive the menu is, let me just tell you that half of our party was stuck in traffic for 30 minutes and we still hadn't decided by the time they arrived. As if that weren't enough, Mi Piace's kitchen dishes us breakfast as well. The Waffles Bambinos are four baby waffles with sauteed bananas, walnuts, and brown sugar. They also offer savory breakfast items like the Smoked Salmon Fritatta and Spinach and Mushroom Croissant. As swanky as the space can be at night, it would be just as good for people-watching on a Sunday morning by yourself or with the whole family. There is really no group you can't take here, it has something to satisfy every taste. I can't recommend it enough and I am waiting with bated breath to see what my next visit will bring.

Mi Piace
25 E. Colorado Blvd.
Pasadena, CA
(626) 795-3131

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