Sunday, March 4, 2007

Linni Eats L.A.: Señor Fish

When I say that I have found the cheapest and best seafood in all of Los Angeles, I doubt a small Mexican restaurant in Eagle Rock comes to mind. Believe it or not, this is the case at Senor Fish, where rainbow Christmas lights hang year-round on the wooden porch out front. Massive tree trunks poke up through the floor-boards and one might find themselves leaning their back against one while sitting at one of the lower picnic tables or bar stools that complete the eclectic atmosphere.


A dry-erase board inside lists the day's fresh fish specials. There are usually about eight, but they get erased as the kitchen runs out, a sign of their interest in freshness and quality. Sea bass, salmon, and swordfish tempt you away from the carnitas and asada usually ordered in a taco joint, and listings of fresh tuna and trout distract from your average pastor. Arguably the most popular dish is the Callo de Hacha, an enormous and well-constructed scallop burrito filled with spanish rice, beans, and surprisingly high-quality fish for only 6.50. Not only is this the only place I've ever seen a scallop burrito, it's also probably the only place serving multiple scallops for under seven dollars.


These flakey morsels also work their magic in the soft-shell scallop tacos, amazingly 2.75 each, topped with cilantro and cheese and served with pinto beans and rice. Despite their emphasis on fish, the asada taco was just as good, and I'm willing to bet they don't slack off on the pork or chicken dishes, either. They offer to grill any fish for you, if you prefer that texture, and any of the day's specialty seafood can be ordered in taco, burrito, tostada, torta, enchilada, and quesadilla form. The scallops in the burrito were soft and juicy, while those in the tacos were grilled to achieve an irresistible crunchy exterior.


One might think that it is easy to get away with using mediocre seafood if it is just going to be mashed up in a burrito, but I tested this theory and was shot down. The baby green salad gave the orange roughy room to shine, and shine it did. On a bed of mixed greens, avocado, and mandarin oranges and topped with cotija cheese, this fish was better in quality than a lot of what I've been served in upscale seafood restaurants. And this cost less than ten dollars.

I recommend starting with chips and guacamole, just like any other Mexican joint. Their chips are fried to the point of amazing and there is a full bar of salsa options, of which we tried at least 5. And if you think the dinner prices are cheap, head back for the lunch special, which includes a drink, rice and beans, and two tacos of your choosing for 6.50, 7.50 if you choose shrimp or scallops. And as if they hadn't spoiled us enough, they also offer a weekend breakfast menu. Next time you're craving incredibly good seafood, don't get bogged down by visions of high-class snobs rude waiters, and depleting bank accounts. Senor Fish is making incredibly good seafood at all hours of the day, and you won't have to break the bank for any of it.

1 comment:

mal said...

why is it that mexican food is so frequently associated with christmas lights?